I decline to use the TIPA fonts because I find them hideous. Appearance is extremely important to me. If that is the only kind of font that I can use to typeset works for linguistics, then I better go back to InDesign, much as I dislike the thought.

Installing extra fonts for LaTeX is not trivial, especially for a n00bie. It would be a lot easier if a font on CTAN had a PDF file showing all the glyphs in the font. But they don't so I'm trying to figure out another way to determine which fonts to try.
I tried installing XeTeX, which supposedly will allow me to use any font installed on my Ubuntu Intrepid computer, but I failed to get it working. If I follow the instructions and put the required lines in the document preamble I get an error message when I try to create a PDF.
Does a list of font packages for LaTeX exist that contains descriptions of what is inside the font?
Also, is it possible to have TIPA use a different font? Or is it hard wired to use Times?